The road north from Accra is long, and most travellers never take it past Kumasi. That is a mistake.
Paga, on the border with Burkina Faso, is famous for its sacred crocodile ponds. But the real story of the journey is everything in between, the towns, the food, the languages, the landscapes that shift as you climb the country.
This is a travel essay for anyone who believes the best stories are the ones you find when you keep going.